Saint Nicholas Stairs
125 steps lined with bougainvillea and street art — the unofficial spine of the neighborhood.
No. 02 — 10
Mar Mikhael & Gemmayze
Beirut
The heart of Beirut's creative scene — French-mandate facades, Saint Nicholas Stairs, and the city's best pub crawl.
Sights
These adjacent neighborhoods are the heart of Beirut's creative and bohemian scene, famous for their traditional French-mandate architecture and the Saint Nicholas Stairs.
After Dark
The ultimate pub-crawl destination. Check out Anise for arak cocktails, Internationale, or Coop d'Etat — a famous rooftop bar with a laid-back vibe.
The Itinerary
Top Places to See
The shortlist we always send first. If you have only one afternoon, start here.
Sursock Museum
A 1912 Italianate villa restored after the 2020 blast, now housing modern and contemporary Lebanese art.
Saint Nicolas Greek Orthodox Church
A landmark of Achrafieh’s old skyline, anchoring the bottom of the stairs.
Armenia Street
The main artery of Mar Mikhael — galleries, ateliers, design studios, and a different bar every fifty metres.
Insider Notes
Quietly Highlighted
The corners that don't always make the guidebooks but reward the curious.
01
Plan Bey
A press-room-cum-gallery printing affordable editions by Lebanese artists since 2010.
02
Maison Tarazi
The fifth-generation atelier of Lebanese decorative arts — orientalist lanterns, wood, and mother-of-pearl.
03
East Village
A cluster of restored heritage houses turned into a courtyard of restaurants and shops.
What to Do
Entertainment & Atmosphere
Where the place comes alive — concerts, festivals, beach clubs, and the best ways to fill an evening.
Metro al Madina
Iconic Hamra cabaret-theatre with a Mar Mikhael sister venue — live music, satire, and Arabic theatre.
Live music at Radio Beirut
A radio-station-meets-bar with a packed local indie line-up.
Gallery hopping
Letitia Gallery, Janine Rubeiz, and Galerie Tanit cluster within walking distance.
The Table
Where to Eat
Tested addresses across categories — from village mountain food to fine modern Lebanese.
Tawlet
Slow-food canteen by Souk el Tayeb — a different Lebanese village cook every day.
Liza Beirut
Refined Lebanese in a restored 1850s palace just up the hill in Achrafieh.
Em Sherif Café
The casual sibling of the famed Em Sherif — mezze and grills all day.
Baron
A neighborhood favorite in a former pharmacy — Mediterranean small plates with a great natural-wine list.
To Take Home
Souvenirs Worth the Suitcase Space
Locally made, locally sourced, and small enough to fly with — what to actually buy.
01
Orient 499
The flagship for contemporary Lebanese craft — soaps, ceramics, embroidered linens.
02
L’Artisan du Liban
A century-old not-for-profit selling olive-wood, glass, and copper.
03
Plan Bey print editions
Affordable signed prints by some of Lebanon’s best contemporary artists.
Continue the field guide
